I got to sample the new brunch menu at Ludivine. All of it. At a table of food writers and Instagrammers, people who use words like “offal” and don’t flinch when a Bloody Mary (or Russ, in this case) has a tentacle sticking out of it. Dream Sunday.

I wasn’t on an official assignment; in fact, most of the publications I freelance for were well-represented at the table. I, on the other hand, was just there to eat, squeal with delight, and formulate opinions. A few of my notes:

The Bloody Russ: The octopus braising liquid is in the tomato cocktail. Some bitters, Worcestershire…very traditional except for the pleasant seafood aftertaste. Totally into it.
Lobster and Grits: It is what it says it is. The grits were excellent; flavorful, with separate grains instead of just the mushy pile of cheese grits usually are. Pleasant and light.
Lox Bagel Benny: A freaking EVERYTHING BAGEL-FLAVORED bread pudding with a sweet, smooth corn cake texture, house-smoked lox (very high in salt; I’m into it), and poached eggs with a cream cheese fondue. Beautiful presentation, and very rich.
Huevos con Tamales: I know this is sacrilege, but these are the best tamales I’ve had at any restaurant anywhere. Super crisp masa, and a rich porky filling made of offal—hog’s head. Great balance in the salsa verde.

Those four items make this absolutely worth the trip during the brunch’s six-week trial run. Other highlights: Pain Perdue using Esca Vitae’s perfect brioche (skip the foie gras, totally unnecessary), goat bacon, and the waffle is…the best waffle I’ve ever had. Perfectly crispy, Belgian-style, with an ultra-sweet Madeira syrup. The kind of waffle that makes your kids want to eat sweetbreads. The Croque Tartine was excellent but fairly standard, and the steak and eggs were surprisingly anti-climactic compared to the boldness of the other dishes.

Here’s their shot of the menu:

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